DRAFT ONLY
Note: If this guide is used outside of my
personal issue and supervision, please provide some feedback for my services to
you.
Regards: Evan Humble
Evan's Motorcycle Training homepage link
email: info@evansmotorcycletraining.com.au
TECHNIQUES:
CAR TO MOTORCYCLE TRANSITION:
In a car you were taught to not keep your foot over the clutch and not to use the brakes though corners....
Forget this advice for much of your time on your bike you will leave your hand on and controlling the clutch, and while cornering you will find use of the rear brake allows you to ride with more control.
REAR BRAKE:
Despite a seeming contradiction in using the rear brake lightly and accellerating it is a valid technique for cornering and is commonly referred to as "Trail Braking"
While cornering or doing low speed work or on gravel keep positive energy in the drivetrain by dragging the rear brake slightly and modulating the clutch if need be, you will have noticed if you go from positive to negative drivetrain energy the bike tends to jump or even bunny hop it also makes the bike go wide during a turn, hence to be avoided.
Acceleration tightens the top of the chain
making the back of the bike sit lower, adding some rear brake enhances this
effect.
Alternately if you unwisely close the throtttle allowing the engine to be used for braking this tightens the lower chain removing weight of the rear wheel making skidding more likely and cornering more difficult: ie do not panic and shut of throttle, maintain some throttle and lightly add rear brake.
Another point of note is to make sure you
have your foot ready on the rear brake peg and possibly providing some gentle
control as you take off to avoid surging too quickly forward or to avoid
rolling back while moving off on a hill.
Also when you come to a stop always Left foot down only if you then need to change gears do you change your ground foot, but always returning Right foot to peg position before moving off.
FRONT BRAKE:
Try to use whenever slowing down even if not needed to develop a well learned response and reflex action, also if a sudden hazard should appear saving you metres in distance.
Front brake should not be used while the bike is being accelerated to gain speed or hold speed as this will "squash" the wheels towards each other making the bike amongst other things less stable.
Do not allow your hand to rest on the brake
while cornering or when you are doing low speed manouvres.
CLUTCH:
Release clutch during gear changes to
friction point and control finely to allow smooth traction and delivery of
power and minimal shock and wear to other components.
Use the clutch whenever power delivery needs
to be tuned ie on corners and surfaces of difficult
traction, unlike in a car where use of the clutch is discouraged the higher
power to weight ratio of motorcycles requires this, and the motorcycle design
allows simple and inexpensive part replacement, better to have clutch wear than
losses of control or premature engine wear.
If gear doesn't wish to change never force
the shifter simply ease the clutch out slowly (often
resulting in a clicking sound as the mechanism shifts) and try the shifter
again.
WHERE YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING:
You have an inbuilt tendency to travel to
where you are looking during activities like walking, skiing, running and cycling.
During low speed manoeuvres looking further around your turn at 5+ metres away at eye level will draw on the above tendencies allowing you to make the tightest turn.
The second point of note is the ability of
your eyes to track your surroundings, looking down and close to your position
the ground appears to move fast and requires high mental effort to track, and
even then not all is processed with you often just seeing a blur and other
mental tasks like balance becoming compromised.
Special note: avoid visually fixating on the
concrete kerbing while U turning as where your look is where you will go, this
may take some self discipline to achieve.
Hence during emergency braking or low speed manouvres ensure your eyes focus to the horizon level and
your brain can then easily judge your position and adjustments to be made to
maintain the upright course.
The final advantage obtained by the above techniques is that it encourages an upright posture during braking allowing the bike to have better weight distribution with a little bit more on the rear.
ROAD POSITION:
The following road position guidelines are based on the idea of always riding in the safest position so even when other vehicles makes dangerous mistakes you can avoid the need for sudden unplanned actions or changes in course. While most the time one could travel faster and easier using more road area, we need to concern ourselves and be ready for those times when this is not an option, as often by the time one realises a change is needed when riding in an undisciplined manner it can be dangerous or too late.
Generalisations are all well and good and a base level to start at,
however the bottom line is you should learn to be choosing your position based
alone on the road environment and how you feel comfortable.
Some factors will point you to the left side, some to the right, sometimes either is good other
times you compromise on certain factors because other benefits outweigh the
negatives etc
All riding is done in the Left or Right wheel
track of where a car would travel on the road the inbetween
area often referred to as the grease strip being avoided as well as the outer
areas of road where tyre damaging or grip compromising debri
may be found, these avoided areas are only to be briefly and gently cut across
or ridden on when hazards compromise the use of the wheel track positions.
You may find it helpful to study where cars
situate themselves on the roads you travel to get an idea of the wheel track
positions you should use.
Roads where the Right wheeltrack
could put you next to oncoming traffic(hazard) (generally small
urban ie Keeble way and
typical county road ie Hepburn ave,
Sit left generally unless potential roadside
hazards (ie parked cars <1m from road, pedestrians,
kangaroos etc) or roads on left make it safer for you
on the right, move back to left upon approach of oncoming cars or bends and
crests on the road.
At stop signs or giveway
signs consider avoiding the Right position unless turning Right as traffic can
easily cut the corner or drift wide to your side of the road.
Buffered or similar extra width single
lane road:(ie
Consider now using either wheel track as the
Right offers safety from cars pulling out from the Left as well as visibility around Left hand bends. However be cautious not
to be too far out that cars undertake (overtake on your
Left) unless you are turning Right
Dual lane:
Sit in the track closest the white dividing centre line although try to be closer to the grease strip so as other lane traffic is comfortable. If road bends do not allow yourself to lean close or into the next lane move to other wheel track for these hazards.
KEEP LEFT:
Use left lane where possible this allows overtaking and emergency vehicles passage while this will sometimes mean you wait a little longer at intersections you will not be sitting in a dangerous blind spot (Right lane Left wheel track) or unexpected position (in the Right lane Right wheel track) to overtaking vehicles. Also as a plus hopefully the overtaking vehicles in the right lane can trigger the next set of lights allowing you to overtake them.
HEAD-CHECKS: (checking all
intersections or adjacent road positions and blind-spots
before you move across)
While riding normally one should be looking
at every intersection they approach for vehicles that may breach rider right of
way or other hazards ahead (don't turn a corner
concentrating only on giving way then ride into a parked car around a corner),
this is often done out the corner of your eye, however for the exam the
examiner needs to see your head fully move so he knows you look out for
yourself and also have the coordination and mindset to maintain speed and keep
the bike straight. While this is often pointless when moving through
intersections at speed or you are possibly doing this after you have checked
out the corner of your eye, the examiner needs you to "show".
Given the above if something critical needs
your attention and you miss an intersection "head-check"
head movement this should be understood.
POSITION AND LANE CHANGES:
For moves across less than 1.5m and not crossing out of lane just check mirror look over blind spot and move across no indication is required.
For larger distances than 1.5m or lane
changes
TURNING RIGHT AT GREEN LIGHT NO ARROW OR
CLEARED/OFF ARROW INTERSECTION:
Stay behind white line till red arrows
clears, without delay check traffic coming from Right side and move vehicle
completely past white line and into intersection, when opposing lane is clear
or stopping(this can involve the intersection being
red by the time you cross, this is legal all traffic must give way to you
before they enter the intersection) continue your turn checking for traffic
from the hopefully stationary red light.
If in a row of cars turning Right do not move
past the white line until the vehicle in front is clearing the intersection or
you will be breaking the law and entering a blocked intersection.
OBSTACLES AND SURFACES TO AVOID RIDING ON:
Adjust your road position to avoid potholes, undulations and changes of surfaces including manhole covers, painted surfaces and debris as these can cause problems ranging from discomfort and change in grip, through to tire damage due to nails, debris etc collecting on the lower area and ultimately accidents.
HORN:
If traffic fails to move when it should
creating frustration and potential danger, the use of the horn is warranted.
EMERGENCY BRAKING FOR DPI TEST AND PRACTICE:
The test requires you approach at 50kmh and
stop in 12m(dry) or 16m(wet).
On the approach get your limb and body
positioning ready and comfortable, attain 50kmh and hold this speed neither gaining
or losing speed to maintain good weight distribution, if this is wrong at brake
point abort to try again as you could lose a few metres
of stopping distance and due to more suspension travel before weight goes to
the front more chance of lock up or endo.
The examiners and the author are not
impressed by a good recovery or almost recovery while attempting the E-Brake
resulting in a <12m stop, they will fail you, impressive is smooth and
keeping control, nice recoveries and short distances are simply for emergency
braking gone wrong and involving potential injury or death no other time.
On the VTR250/CBF250 set the rear brake lightly and
concentrate entirely on the front wheel, if the bike skids correct this without
any further concern for stopping distance distance
allowing the bike to move on forward and the gyroscopic forces of the wheels to
regain balance, where attempting to stop would more often than not result in a
fall occurring.
Whenever approaching intersections or about to
slow down/brake hard it is advisable to check your mirror to ensure the
vehicles behind you can or are doing the same.
Finally when practicing multiple times or
racing brakes become hot, as a precaution to avoid heat damage to your bike, do
not hold the front brake in when stationary.
OVERTAKING:
Do not allow yourself to be stuck in a slower
or stopped position keep aware of other vehicle movements pre-empt and overtake
as a preferred option.
note: slow vehicles ie >10kmh
below speed limit often constitute a road hazard in authors experience,
overtake and avoid.
PARKING:
Park considerately to allow
the largest number of vehicles into MC bays always facing out towards road for
safe and easy move of.
If you must park or pullover briefly in a car
bay or another area of road ensure you are safe and legal and park parallel to kerb.
Do not park facing down a hill into a kerb as it will be hazardous when you reverse out into
traffic, stop the traffic and reverse in instead. And secondly you also may
have grip issues or strength problems getting your
bike out, which may result in you needing help...during a test an examiner would fail you for your poor planning.
Parking on a hill turn off engine disengage
clutch and allow vehicle to roll till the engine stops it, now put the side-stand down, your bike is going nowhere.
COURTESY AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY:
Please embrace the concept that the road users
behind you need to get where they are going as fast as legally possible, do the
speed limit, move of quickly, anticipate traffic signals and be ready.
During the test however ensure you slow
before a lower speed limit sign and increase only when fully through a higher
limit sign.
UNDETECTED BY TRAFFIC SIGNAL SENSOR:
Observe traffic light orders at intersections
in order to be ready, if they appear to not be sensing your vehicle, turn to
the examiner and ask him the best thing to do. It also helps if vehicles stop
along way behind you too beckon them forward closer to the sensor before a
problem occurs.
The Authority in charge of traffic lights
thoughtlessly advises cycles/motorcyclists to ride down the centre of the
grease strip, which is an unsafe practice I personally discourage and is also
marked against harshly by your test examiners.
You can help to prevent delays by reporting
traffic signal faults, crashes and hazards to the Traffic Operations Centre on
the toll free number 1800 800 009, 24 hours a day (there are additional costs
for mobiles).
LANE-SPLITTING:
I recommend for all licensed riders to lane
split when safe to do so as it keeps you safer from being rear ended and
enhances traffic flow.
Always lane-split
carefully as in the event of a collision you and your bike may get seriously
damaged/destroyed, also proving other party negligence will be difficult given
majority road user attitudes to this technique, even if you were completely
legal and correct.
If on a lower powered bike or the 2 "racecars" at the front of the lights look intimidating sit inline with the next car back and simply merge into a gap.
THE PRACTICAL EXAM:
The examiner will give you instructions where to go, you should clarify and ask them to repeat them until you understand them and can ride of thinking more about what you are doing than where you are going, if you can only remember the first few or forget where you are meant to be going at any time then find a SAFE legal place to pull over and ask again, you will incur no penalties for this, it is a riding exam not a memory exam.
If you find yourself in the wrong road position (ie in a left turn only lane and the directions were for you to go straight) for the directions given do not do anything rash or illegal simply take the turn and then plan and take the appropriate actions the examiner has outlined to either return to the correct course or pull safe and legal over if the examiner is still with you. Some examiners may put you in this situation for whatever reason do not be let it trouble you. No penalties are incurred for taking the wrong directions this is not a a test of directions.
During the test the examiner will usually follow very closely often in your blind-spot, do not let this pressure you. However use your mirrors and frequently observe him for instructions or cues, ie if you move across and indicate and he is doing the opposite or signaling other intents take note...
The examiner will also think by your regular mirror checks and awareness that you are also capable and safe, practice using your mirrors so as to gain this level of proficiency.
Avoid doing unnescessary activities during the test such as flipping visor up and down or taking hands of handlebars etc and maintain a high degree of awareness at traffic lights as to what is going on, try to ride a fairly normal A-B ride with a high attention to detail, think and work through things at your own pace even if that means taking longer than usual because of nervousness while being nervous can slow you down don't let it cause you to make rash unwise decisions, the examiner wants you to pass and is happy for you to take your time as they know most people are nervous when doing the test, remember you are ready for the test, you are capable of doing this in a calm controlled manner just like in your lessons and passing.
You will also do a low speed U-turn (often referred to as a Figure-O) and a controlled braking exercise, all going well you will do some more general riding around then return to the licensing centre and hopefully gain your license.